Alsatian Jura – 4 hiking ideas

The Alsatian Jura, really?

Yes, even Alsatians don’t usually believe it when they hear about it, but the Jura Massif does pass through Alsace! It lies at the southern end of the massif, on the border with Switzerland, and reaches its highest point at 831 meters altitude, on the Raemelspitz, in the Raemelsberg range. It’s only a small part of the massif (175 km2), but it’s enough to give you a real change of scene.

I love the Vosges, but it’s also nice to have a change of scenery. Here, sandstone gives way to limestone, and it’s quite a change of scenery! What’s more, the Alsatian Jura is home to great biodiversity: many species of orchids and birds, as well as lynx and forest cats, live here.

1. Raemelsberg hike in the Alsatian Jura

If you’re looking for a sporty hike with beautiful panoramic views in southern Alsace, look no further: I’ve got just the thing for you with this hike starting from Wolschwiller, in the Sundgau region. This 11km loop, with 400m of ascent, takes you to the Raemelsberg, the highest peak in the Alsatian Jura .

This hike is a favorite because I found it very different from the Vosges sandstone (the limestone rocks typical of the Jura are very different from the Vosges sandstone) and because it allows to have magnificent viewpoints, both on the Alsatian and on the Swiss side! I also liked the fact that I made a small incursion into Switzerland, which added to the exotic side of the trip.

Climbing in the forest of Wolschwiller

Starting from Wolschwiller, the hike quickly leaves the village to reach the forest biological reserve where Great Horned Owls were reintroduced in the 1970s and which is home to a wide variety of birds, but also lynx and forest cats! Incredible, isn’t it? This is where the walk is going to be the hardest, as we climb towards the ridge. But then, you’ve got to earn a view, don’t you?

The Raemel chain, border between France and Switzerland

Once you’ve reached the top, you’ll quickly notice some large boundary stones, which are in fact border markers marking the boundary between France and Switzerland. That’s why this path is called the “sentier des douaniers” or “sentier des contrebandiers”… It’s easy to imagine that goods were smuggled across the border here!

From here, I bet you’ll be stopping every 2 minutes to admire the view, especially from the Swiss side, as it’s the clearest. The panoramic views of the surrounding area are just magnificent, and well worth pausing to admire!

The Raemelspitz, highest point of the Alsatian Jura

Walking along the ridge path, you reach the Raemelspitz, the highest point in the Sundgau and Alsatian Jura at 832m. Ok, it’s not super-high, but the view is nonetheless insane, as you can admire the Vosges on the French side, the Jura on the Swiss side, the Black Forest on the German side and even, on a clear day, the Swiss Alps, including the famous Jungfrau peak.

If you want to get even higher, you can climb the concrete tower installed by the Swiss on the Raemelspitz before the First World War to keep an eye on the surrounding area. It’s climbed by ladder, so you don’t need to be afraid of heights… I only climbed up to the first platform, and didn’t have the courage to continue, especially as the view was already giving me complete satisfaction 😉

An amazing sculpture on the Rittimatte

Continuing towards the village of Burg-im-Leimental in Switzerland, we pass through the Rittimatte, a vast clearing containing an astonishing sculpture. At first glance, it looks like a cheese, but make no mistake, it’s… an LSD tablet! Yes, I’m not kidding! It was installed in tribute toAlbert Hofmannthe Burg-born chemist who discovered LSD. Truly astonishing!

Burg Castle

You’ll soon reach the village of Burg in Switzerland, where (yet another) surprise awaits you: a beautiful castle suddenly seems to appear out of nowhere! All that remains is to cross the village and take the forest path back to the starting point.

2. Walk to the Grotte des Nains in Ferrette

The cave of the Dwarfs is, with the castle of Ferrette, one of the inescapable of a discovery of Sundgau and the Alsatian Jura. It’s easy to get there but the place is spectacular and really worth a visit! I’ve already been there several times and it’s a place I adore and highly recommend.

Legend of the Dwarves of Ferrette

Grotte des Nains isn’t called that because it’s now home to garden gnomes! Its name is linked to a Sundgau legend (click to read it).

The limestone rocks of the Grotte des Nains

When you arrive on the spot, you can be surprised by the small size of the cave of the Dwarfs, which has nothing spectacular: a crack opening in the rock wall, in which we find garden gnomes (!) .

But we come to Grotte des nains not only for the cave itself, but also (and above all, I’d say!) for the spectacular scenery that surrounds it.Immense limestone rocks, typical of the Alsatian Jura and a complete departure from the Vosges sandstone we’re so familiar with in Alsace, form a 35-metre-high gorge called Erdwibalaschlucht (the parade of the little women of the earth). The gorge was formed by water working its way through karst limestone.

Above the gorge, you can access the Plateau des Nains, also known as Erdwibalafelsen (Fairy Rock), which offers a beautiful panorama over the Ill valley and the villages of Bouxwiller and Werentzhouse. For climbing enthusiasts, it’s also a favorite spot!

Family walks or hiking, your choice!

To discover the Grotte des Nains, you can choose between different walks of varying lengths:

• the shortest route (suitable for all-terrain baby carriages): park at the Keucht parking lot in the forest. Head towards Sondersdorf and, just before leaving the village, turn left onto the forest path marked with a wooden sign “Sentier des Nains”. Continue to the parking lot a few hundred metres further on. From the parking lot, allow 15-20min for the walk.
• the short walk: park at the Communauté de Communes parking lot in Ferrette (3A route de Lucelle) and take the red diamond-shaped path along the road towards Sondersdorf. Allow 30-35 minutes to reach the cave (1.8km).
• hiking: you can make a very nice loop from the village of Ferrette to discover the Grotte des Nains, the castle of Ferrette but also beautiful viewpoints like the Heindenfluh (my favorite!). Find the infos here.

3. Rando itinérante – 3 castles in the Alsatian Jura

I tried out the Circuit des 3 Châteaux du Jura alsacien, a 4-day loop hike exploring the Sundgau region of southern Alsace. The least we can say is that I was not disappointed: it is a superb hike to do in Alsace!

4 days of hiking in a loop

The circuit of the 3 castles of the Alsatian Jura is 85km long, with about 2 750m of positive altitude difference. It is thus rather reserved for good walkers, but it is also possible to cut the itinerary a little if it seems too much to you but you still want to hike there a few days. The itinerary forms a loop, which makes it easy to get back to the starting point (and eventually to your car). But the good news is that the start and finish of the hike can also be reached by public transport thanks to the Basel streetcar serving Leymen. Really practical!

The landscapes offered by the hike are varied: from the meadows and hills of the Sundgau to a distinctly more mountainous atmosphere in the Alsatian Jura, with rocks, slopes and beautiful ridgelines! As the name of the hike suggests, there are also some beautiful castles to admire along the way: the Ferrette, Morimont and Landskron castles may be in ruins, but they are nonetheless magnificent and offer incredible panoramic views of the surrounding area.

What’s more, I liked the fact that I was skirting the Swiss border and even making a little incursion into it, which was fun. In my opinion, that’s one of the strong points of this hike: it offers a great variety of landscapes and atmospheres, so there’s no monotony!

Easy to organize

This hike is easy to organize. You’ll have to contact the three hotels one by one, but the accommodations offer special rates for hikers and a multitude of services. You can book your own bed and breakfast, as well as half-board, a picnic lunch for the following day, and even luggage transport! I have to admit, it’s a great way to hike with only a small daypack! I tested it and loved it 🙂

So, tempted?

For more information, read my detailed article on my 4-day hike in the Alsatian Jura on my blog Carnet d’escapades. Difficulties, stages, accommodation… I give you all the info you need to prepare your hike! Of course, you can also visit theSundgau Tourist Office website, where you’ll find all the practical information you need, as well as the GPX trail.

4. Hiking from Leymen to Mariastein

I’m taking you on a family outing from Leymen to Mariastein, between Alsace and Switzerland, 15 km from Saint-Louis and Basel, which satisfied both my desire for fresh air and my curiosity! The Sundgau is full of little-known treasures. Leymen is no exception to the rule, especially when the village is associated with its neighbor in the canton of Solothurn, Mariastein. The hike starts in Leymen, near a small chapel, on the same path as the trail around Landskron Castle.

Let’s go!

First we pass an old quarry which is off-limits to the public, but which is impressive even from a distance. Then begins the (gentle) ascent to the castle. After passing the edge of the forest, we skirt a meadow where the Landskron tower can be seen, and pass through a hamlet to continue our (very slight) climb. The houses here are charming, with the air of second homes! But it’s the hut perched in the middle of the meadows that catches our eyes the most. That’s for sure!

Landskron Castle and its fascinating history

We’ve finally arrived at the château, which has been designated a historic monument. If you’re a fan of history, you’ll find it very interesting: take your time to read the panels in each part of the castle, with dates, anecdotes, an overview… You can also flash the QR-Codes! The ruins, very well maintained by the Franco-Swiss association Pro-Landskron, date from the 13th to the 18th century. The castle served as a residence for the nobility of Basel, passed through many hands and ended up as a fortress and prison on the French side. A certain Vauban also left his mark. It is also said that a former nobleman from New Orleans, who had arrived at the court of Versailles, was too forceful with a young lady, resulting in her imprisonment for 21 years (gloups), until the French Revolution. The Landskron was plundered and bombarded by the population following the Napoleonic invasions in the early 19th century.

Here, visitors settle down just about everywhere. There are plenty of natural terraces, perfect for a snack or picnic. It’s a safe place to wander around (keeping an eye on the kids), although there’s one passage that’s sure to get your adrenaline pumping: the metal spiral staircases that take you to the top of the tower, which itself stands on a rock. The view is magnificent: you can really see all the surrounding countryside, especially the Swiss countryside and the nearby city of Basel.

Mariastein and its unique rock chapel!

Here we go again! As you descend from the château, you cross the border into Switzerland without noticing. The view is as beautiful as ever, and the houses, often former farmhouses, are beautifully renovated. On the other side of the hill, Mariastein finally comes into view, with its vineyards and Kloster (monastery), or “Abbaye de Notre-Dame-de-la-Pierre” in French. The story goes that a family built a stone chapel dedicated to Mary in the 15th century, to pay homage to her after she saved their cowherd son from death. Another miracle occurred with a knight a few decades later. The legend was born. Today, the site is the object of numerous pilgrimages in search of a miracle.

This is evidenced by the hundreds of plaques of thanks in all languages that cover the corridors leading to the sacred chapel. I thought it was beautiful! I had never seen one like it: it is integrated into the monastery but nestled in the rock, with a decoration made of dark wood and gilding, an altar made of stone, a superb statue of Mary and a very beautiful organ. The site is home to the Swiss Benedictine monks’ community and several other chapels.

It is the end of the walk…

After our visit to this timeless chapel, we set off again into the Swiss countryside, between fields and forest, then back to the French side (note that the border here is only indicated by a “douane” sign. Not even dotted lines on the ground, I was disappointed 😉 ). In the forest, a “surprise” awaits us: a completely lost cabin (2nd adrenalin moment of the day!). We’re off to see what this little house looks like, because the big rock just behind it is topped by the ruins of the former Waldeck castle, destroyed in the 14th century, and then we’re off in a hurry.