What to do in the Upper Black Forest? 5 ideas around Titisee
Looking for nature, lakes, pretty villages and a change of scenery? The Upper Black Forest, in the south of Baden-Württemberg in Germany, is the highest part of the massif: it's home to the Feldberg, its highest peak (1,493m). From Alsace, it's very close, and easy to get to for a day, a weekend... and more if you like! And more if you feel like it ;) Here are my 5 ideas for activities to discover the region around Titisee.
Video summary
1. Hiking on the Heimatpfad Hochschwarzwald
The Heimatpfad Hochschwarzwald is a 7km, 175m elevation gain loop that combines natural and cultural heritage. Ideal for an easy yet charming hike! Along the way, you can admire old traditional farmhouses and mills, with a few explanatory panels providing a better understanding of the region’s history and rural life.
Departing from Hinterzarten (accessible by train), we start with a gentle descent along the Rotbach stream into the Löffel valley (Löffeltal).
This brings us to theHotel Hofgut Sternen, where we can pause to observe the huge cuckoo clock (if you arrive at 1 or 30 o’clock, you’ll see it in action, which is nice! I was lucky on my side). You can also see glassmakers at work, and do a little shopping in the boutique for glass objects and cuckoo clocks. Yes, this is the land of cuckoo clocks, so it’s time to get cracking if you love these typical clocks! Last but not least, it’s a great place to eat.
We then take the Ravenna Gorge. First you pass under the large viaduct (where the famous Ravenna Gorge Christmas Market is held) before gradually climbing into the gorge via paths, bridges and stairways. It’s well laid out yet retains a beautiful wild aspect. The walk is truly superb, with the omnipresence of water, pretty little waterfalls, greenery…
Once past the gorge, you’ll reach Hinterzarten via some pleasant little roads, admiring the houses and farms along the way. One of them offers self-service drinks and ice cream for a pleasant break: you help yourself and pay at a cash desk or via Paypal (!). And a special mention for the sock fence I saw along the way, which I loved!
2. A stroll through the village of Titisee
Located right on the edge of a lake, the village of Titisee is clearly the most touristy place around. It’s not the place where I’d advise you to spend most of your time, as it’s very busy, with many stores that are a little too touristy for my taste, but the village is still really pretty and well worth discovering.
It’s a pleasant place to stroll around, eat an ice cream, sit on a bench and admire the view of the lake or, of course, enjoy a slice of Black Forest (the famous Schwarzwälder Kirschtorte). It’s not very big, but you can easily spend an hour just wandering around.
Public transport
The good news is that the Upper Black Forest can be reached by train. Hinterzarten and Titiseen, for example, have train stations.
What’s more, a visitor’s card is given to you by your hotel on arrival, giving you free access to all public transport for the duration of your stay. A concept I think is just brilliant! Find out more here on the map.
3. Take a boat trip on Lake Titisee
As Titisee is located on the shores of the lake of the same name, it would be a shame not to take advantage of it! Titisee is one of the most famous lakes in the Black Forest, with its wooded shores and colorful boats.
You can take a ride on an electric boat or pedalo, or simply embark on a guided cruise lasting around 25 minutes to discover the landscape from the water. This is what I did on the Titus boat from Drubba Titisee, and it was very pleasant and peaceful. If you’re looking for a relaxing break, this is a great activity!
4. Discover Hinterzarten
Only a few kilometers from Titisee, Hinterzarten is another charming village, quieter and more authentic. I have to say that I prefer Hinterzarten because I like more peaceful settings. The village is cute, accessible by train, has many hotels, restaurants, cafés and little stores, and is an excellent starting point for hikes and bike rides. There’s also a large protected marshland (the “Hochmoor”) around which you can take a lovely stroll and admire the amazing sculptures by Thomas Rees. I think it’s an excellent base from which to explore the region!
5. Cycling (or VAE) on the Seenradweg Hochschwarzwald
The Seenradweg (“Lake Cycle Route”) is a cycle route linking several lakes in the Upper Black Forest. The total length is around 66 km, with 820 meters of ascent, but it is also possible to cycle only part of the route. It takes in Titisee, Schluchsee, Feldsee and other lesser-known areas. It’s the ideal way to discover the region in a different way, and to take in some stunning panoramas.
The tour has been designed as a “general public” tour, which can be done with an electrically-assisted bike. It’s not technically difficult, and always takes in wide forest roads, with some stretches on little-used roads and cycle paths.
As an added bonus, there are many good inns along the way where you can stop for lunch or a snack. Some even offer to recharge electric bikes if required.
The only difficulty is, of course, the hilly terrain, but with an electric bike, it becomes very accessible. I did a section with an electric-assist bike rented from Thoma Sports in Titisee, which offers top-quality bikes, and didn’t really feel the difference in altitude! If you’re a more experienced cyclist, you can also do this itinerary with a gravel bike, which must be really fun… And I really want to come back and do it!
good addresses
One of the Black Forest’s strengths? Its high-quality, family-run establishments! It’s not for nothing that Alsatians often come here to spend the weekend…
Where to sleep?
I stayed at the Hotel Sonne Garni in Hinterzarten, which I absolutely loved! The hotel is conveniently located near the train station and in the village center, the rooms are comfortable and the breakfast buffet is really excellent, with lots of tasty little extras in addition to the classics. What’s more, the welcome is so friendly, you feel right at home!
Where to eat?
I tried out several good gourmet addresses:
- Hotel Hofgut Sternen in Breitnau – This hotel has a restaurant and is right at the entrance to the Ravenna Gorge (where the huge cuckoo clock is!). I stopped here during the Heimatpfad hike. The terrace is pleasant and I ate very well.
- Boutique Hotel Schwarzwaldhof – Also a hotel with restaurant, located in the center of Hinterzarten. A beautiful place where local products are given pride of place!
- Hotel Imbery – Another hotel and restaurant in Hinterzarten, featuring local produce. The establishment has been in the same family for over 140 years!
- Fräulein Me – A delightful café with delicious cakes in the center of Hinterzarten. Perfect for a gourmet break after a hike!
- Raimartihof- A Highland cow farm that doubles as an inn, close to the Feldsee lake (on the Seenradweg cycle route). Magnificent place, inside and out, good products and a very friendly welcome!
This article was written as part of a paid collaboration with the Baden-Württemberg Tourist Office. my writing freedom. This article contains affiliate links.