The evolution of Place Kléber over the centuries

From Barfüsserplatz to Place d’Armes

Strasbourg’s Place Kléber was originally called Barfüsserplatz ( German for “barefoot square”), after the nearby Franciscan church and monastery, destroyed in the 16th century.

The square then became a Place d’Armes, as part of the city’s modernization and embellishment project by Jacques-François Blondel, architect to the King of France.

But lack of funds and economic problems ultimately prevented this project from being realized: only the Aubette building, a large guardhouse that still exists today, was built in the 1770s, which explains the square’s lack of architectural unity to this day!

Place Kléber today

Place Kléber has been remodeled several times. The last complete restructuring took place in 2007, under the guidance of landscape designer Gilles Clément.

I didn’t know the square before, but I must admit that I don’t find this version very successful: this square is too cold, too mineral for my taste, with its water basins surrounded by gneiss stone but very little greenery, but that’s just my opinion…

Place Kléber is surrounded by a variety of stores, cafés and restaurants. This is where all Strasbourg events take place, as well as many of the city’s cultural and associative events.

On a positive note, the Place Kléber is pedestrianized (with the exception of the streetcar which passes to the west of the square. The Homme de Fer stop is just a stone’s throw away). There’s an underground parking lot in the basement (much better than the vast surface parking lot it housed until 1993!).

The secret of the Kléber statue: a mausoleum

The name Place Kléber was given on June 24, 1840, when the mausoleum dedicated to General Jean-Baptiste Kléber, who led the French army during the French Revolutionary and Napoleonic wars, was inaugurated.

This is a mausoleum, not just a statue as is generally thought: the general’s ashes are preserved in the statue’s base… But his heart rests at Les Invalides in Paris!

Standing 21 meters high, the imposing statue of Strasbourg general Jean-Baptiste Kléber is adorned with sculptures, bas-reliefs and inscriptions commemorating the general’s life and career.

What to see on Place Kléber The Aubette and Maison Rouge

The square features rows of buildings from very different periods, ranging from the Middle Ages to the end of the ^20th century. The two most remarkable are Aubette and Maison Rouge.

L’Aubette: the pink sandstone jewel

L’Aubette is a historic building of Vosges pink sandstone. It’s THE beautiful building on the square, I’d say 😉 It was built in the 1770s as part of the city’s modernization and beautification project, and then bombed during the 1870 war.

Only the original neoclassical façade remains, but a reconstruction was carried out in 1875 by the city architect Jean Geoffroy Conrath, who enriched the building with decorative elements contrasting with its original sobriety.

Today, it’s a hybrid living space:

• Shopping: Here, you’ll find a host of major retailers (Apple Store, Starbucks, etc.).
• Events: an events room is available for a wide range of events.
• Culture: Don’t miss the Aubette 1928 museum on the 1st floor, a small Strasbourg museum with free admission, making it one of the best-known and best-kept secrets in the city center!

A visit toAubette 1928 takes you into the Aubette leisure complex, decorated in 1928 by the three avant-garde artists TheoVan Doesburg, Hans Jean Arp and Sophie Taeuber-Arp. Just that!

At the time, the Aubette was a major cultural center in Strasbourg, and today the entire second floor is listed as a historic monument. Discover the staircase, the Ciné-dancing, the Foyer-bar and the Salle des fêtes.

La Maison Rouge

On the side of the square, the contrast is striking. The current Maison Rouge dates from 1978. It replaced a sumptuous historic hotel demolished in 1973, an architectural choice that many (including me!) still regret for its massive appearance.

The building we see today was built in 1978 by Mr. Herrenschmidt, chief architect of civil buildings and national palaces, who wanted to make a reference in his facade to Alsatian houses, with their pitched roofs and seated dogs, while reinterpreting the half-timbering. I admit I’m skeptical, but let’s face it! I don’t think I know many people who appreciate this building, either from the outside or the inside, I must say.

• Did you know? La Maison Rouge is still a shopping center and home to Fnac (which is what the people of Strasbourg actually call the building).
• Please note: Don’t confuse this shopping center with theHôtel Maison Rouge, a much more charming luxury establishment on an adjacent street!

The Big Tree and the Christmas Market on Place Kléber

If there’s ever a time when the Place Kléber is totally transformed, it’s during the festive season, when Strasbourg’s famous Christmas Market takes place. This is when the Place Kléber is particularly showcased with lights and decorations.

The emblematic Grand Sapin de Strasbourg

Strasbourg’s emblematic Grand Sapin is enthroned on Place Kléber. At 30 meters tall, it’s one of the biggest Christmas trees in Europe.

And even if you’re not the only one to get the idea, I think a souvenir photo in front of the Big Tree and the Strasbourg, Capital of Christmas sign is still a must!

My tip: Don’t miss the musical illumination of Strasbourg’s Grand Sapin, which takes place every hour between 4pm and 9pm. It’s the most magical moment of the day!

The two faces of the marketplace

You’ll find two different atmospheres at the Place Kléber Christmas Market:

• The Village du Partage (at the foot of the tree): This is the Christmas market’s solidarity zone. Here, chalets are set up for charitable associations. It’s the ideal place to buy bredele (Alsatian cakes) or “star soup” while doing a good deed.
• Classic stalls (on the rest of the square): All around this central area, you’ll find more traditional chalets selling handicrafts, Christmas decorations and, of course, food (mulled wine, Alsatian specialities).

Frequently asked questions about Place Kléber in Strasbourg

Conclusion

Whether you come to admire the neoclassical architecture of the Aubette, for a shopping session or to marvel at the Grand Sapin in December, the Place Kléber remains the pulse of Strasbourg. Even if, like me, you sometimes prefer the more “typical” charm of the half-timbered houses of Petite France, you can’t ignore the energy and history that emanate from this central square.

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