Visit the Petite Camargue Alsacienne nature reserve
If you're looking for an idea for a rejuvenating walk in Alsace, away from the hustle and bustle of the city, I've got just the place for you. Nestled in the south of the region, in the Pays de Saint-Louis, the Petite Camargue Alsacienne is a nugget of biodiversity. Spanning 904 hectares, this national nature reserve occupies a former Rhine floodplain, bearing witness to a time when the river gave free rein to its wild floods before being canalized. Whether you're an avid birdwatcher or simply looking for a family outing, here's everything you need to know about this little-known part of the Haut-Rhin region.
The essentials at a glance
- 📍 The spot: A 904-hectare national nature reserve in southern Alsace, on a former Rhine floodplain.
- 📅 When to come? In May to take in the sights (especially the kingfisher), or in September to say hello to the Osprey.
- 🚶♂️ On site: Numerous trails for walking and cycling. It’s a cool spot to be in the shade in summer!
- 👀 In the backpack: A good pair of binoculars to enjoy the reserve’s 16 observatories.
- 🐮 Unusual encounters : The mythical Highland cows that maintain the spaces and fry of Europe’s oldest fish farm.
- 🎒 F or the whole family: nature activities organized by CINE, a free exhibition(Mémoire du Rhin) and a €3 exhibition(Mémoire du saumon).
Video glimpse of Alsace’s Petite Camargue
A place for walkers and cyclists
Trails and observatories
The Petite Camargue alsacienne reserve is particularly well-developed, with numerous trails to explore on foot or by bike. It’s an excellent idea for a hot summer outing: the dense vegetation provides plenty of shade, making for a pleasant walk even in the heat of the day.
My advice: Don’t leave without your binoculars! The reserve boasts no fewer than 16 observatories and viewpoints scattered along the trails. Take your time, sit back and keep your eyes peeled. You’ll often come across photographers equipped with large zoom lenses.
Finding your way around the reserve
To help you find your way around, the reserve is divided into two main areas:
- A section on either side of the Huningue canal(the AU plain).
- Another part is located on the Rhine island.
Rules to observe
It’s also important to bear in mind the rules of the Petite Camargue alsacienne nature reserve :
- bikes are allowed on all trails except the wooden pontoons, where you’ll have to put your foot down. Be sure to keep your speed down too, as there are plenty of walkers around, so the idea is to ride really gently!
- dogs are allowed on a short leash.
- never leave the paths or pick anything.
- respect the calm of the area.
Cycling route ideas
If you’d like to combine a longer bike ride with the discovery of Alsace’s Petite Camargue, I recommend the Petite Boucle des 3 Pays, a delightful 40km itinerary between France, Germany and Switzerland.
A paradise for birds (and Scottish cows!)
The Petite Camargue Alsacienne changes with the seasons, but if you have to choose the ideal time to visit, May is the most interesting. It’s at this time of year that the diversity of species to be observed is most impressive.
Here are just a few of the “star” species you’ll come across in the Petite Camargue:
- Kingfisher: The real star of the show, especially in May. With its turquoise-blue and bright orange feathers, it’s easy to spot as it soars over the water.
- Migratory birds: Numerous species stop over or nest here.
- Osprey: If you miss spring, this magnificent bird of prey becomes the star of the reserve in September.
Along the way, you may also come across an unusual sight: Highland cows. With their long hair and impressive horns, they graze peacefully in the reserve, changing zones according to ecological needs. They were chosen for a very specific reason: the particular shape of their hooves limits soil compaction and causes much less damage to the earth as they pass.
During my visit, I was able to observe some birds, but I don’t have a zoom lens big enough to photograph them… So I fell back on adorable frogs, playing hide-and-seek in the water lilies 😉
Europe’s oldest fish farm
At the heart of the reserve lies a unique historic site: Europe’s first fish farm, built in 1862 during the Napoleonic era. The site was chosen because the water table is very close to the ground, providing water of exceptional purity and quality.
The area’s great historical specialty is salmon farming, particularly Atlantic salmon. The Rhine once teemed with salmon, but industrialization and river development have led to their decline.
Today, the fish farm plays a safeguarding role by raising small fry which are released on the Rhine island at the end of May/beginning of June. It’s a long-term project: for the moment, the return rate remains low (around 16 adult salmon have returned out of 20,000 fry released), but the hope of permanently re-establishing the species remains intact.
The Petite Camargue alsacienne fish farm is only open to the public once a year, on the occasion of the Heritage Days. The rest of the year, you won’t be able to go inside, but the windows allow you to observe the breeding tanks through the glass of the building.
Exhibitions and events: the perfect family outing
The Petite Camargue Alsacienne is also a great place for raising awareness. The Centre d’initiation à la nature et à l’environnement (CINE) regularly organizes activities and workshops for children and adults alike. Consult the program here.
Take advantage of your visit to discover the two exhibitions on site, which are very well done and instructive:
- The “Memory of the Rhine” exhibition (Free): Traces the history of the river, from its wild state to its canalization.
- The “Salmon Memory” exhibition (€3): A fascinating space dealing with the history of fish farming in general and the specific challenges of this Alsatian station.
Other things to do in the area
Practical information on the Petite Camargue alsacienne
How much does admission to the Petite Camargue Alsacienne cost?
Access to the nature reserve and its 16 observatories is totally free and open all year round. Only the “Memory of Salmon” exhibition costs €3.
Can you visit the Petite Camargue Alsacienne with a dog?
Yes, dogs are allowed on the reserve, but they must be kept on a short leash. This is essential to avoid frightening the grazing Highland cows and to preserve the tranquillity of the birds.
Can you cycle on the reserve?
Yes, bikes are allowed on all the reserve’s trails! The only exception is on the wooden pontoons, where it’s compulsory to put your foot down and walk alongside your bike. As there are plenty of walkers, just be sure to ride gently.
How long does it take to visit the reserve?
To make a nice loop, take the time to observe the wildlife from the observation huts and visit the exhibits, allow between 2 and 3 hours for the walk. It’s an ideal half-day outing in the countryside.
How do I get to the Petite Camargue Alsacienne by public transport?
Yes, very easily! Just take the train to Saint-Louis station, then take the Distribus network (lines 4 or 5, stop at “Petite Camargue” to get to the Maison de la Réserve, or line 6 for Ile du Rhin).
Can you reach the Petite Camargue Alsacienne by bike?
Very easy! The EuroVelo 6 bike path runs along the Huningue canal and leads directly to the site’s entrances. It’s just a few minutes from Saint-Louis station if you combine train and bike.
Where can I park to access the trails?
If you’re coming to the heart of the historic site (plaine de l’AU), you can park free of charge in the following parking lots Stade de l’Au or Maison Éclusière. For the Rhine island, you can park at the parking lots at the Kembs locks (French side) or Am Stauwehr (German side).
This article was written as part of a paid collaboration with the Agence d’Attractivité Touristique Saint-Louis 3 pays. I have my writing freedom. This article contains affiliate links.