The surprising (and dark) origins of the name “Petite France”.

Did you know that the name of this idyllic neighborhood was not originally romantic? Shoemakers are often the worst shod, and it’s a safe bet that many people in Strasbourg don’t know the origin of the name!

To understand its source, we need to go back to the 15th century. At the time, an unknown disease was making its appearance: syphilis, nicknamed the “French disease”.

The first patients in Strasbourg were French and Swiss mercenaries hired by King Charles VIII. Rejected by the population, they were brought together in a dedicated facility: theHospital des Syphilitiques, open until 1687. The building was nicknamed “Zum Französel” (The Little Frenchman), a name which, by extension, was given to the whole district: Petite France.

Today’s Quai de la Petite France, popular for its promenades, was once known by the far less glamorous name of “ruelle des syphilitiques” (syphilitics’ alley). Yet the district has also been the birthplace of illustrious figures such as General Jean-Baptiste Kléber or Napoleonic army illustrator Benjamin Zix, who have left their mark on Strasbourg’s history.

What to see in Petite France My itinerary

With its old half-timbered craftsmen’s houses, covered bridges and locks, this is Strasbourg’s most picturesque district. Petite France is best discovered on foot, strolling along its narrow cobbled streets, or gliding down the Ill on board a boat. I’d like to take you on a stroll through the heart of this historic district – a bit neglected by Strasbourgers in summer to the benefit of tourists – to discover its narrow streets, its tragic history (often overlooked) and its unique architecture. Here’s my idea of an itinerary for visiting Petite France.

The Maison des Tanneurs, a Strasbourg icon

It’s the ideal starting point, just past Place Benjamin Zix, where we’ll be returning at the end of our walk. With its half-timbered houses and canals dedicated to shipping and crafts, Petite France was once a small trading village, home to the tanner’s guild, a widespread profession at the time.

The Maison des Tanneurs, dating back to 1572, is one of the relics of the period, famous for its open galleries under the roofs, where craftsmen dried animal skins. These former drying rooms have since been converted into a restaurant. Gone is the leather of the Tanneurs district, the only skin stretched here today is that of the stomach and the leather of the belt loosened after a hearty meal!

A fuel, Lökhas, was also created from the oak bark residue used for tanning, which was then compressed into a briquette resembling that of Munster cheese. Lökhas gave its name to the restaurant on rue du Bain aux Plantes.

Pont du Faisan (the famous swing bridge)

Once a towpath where horses pulled boats, then a simple Renaissance footbridge, the Pont du Faisan became a drawbridge in 1869, then a swing bridge in 1888, which sees over forty boats a day. Its special feature? It swivels to let flyboats pass.

Today, it’s the neighborhood’s most Instagrammable spot, the bridge on which we take photos with the Maison des Tanneurs, the Place Benjamin Zix and its large terrace in the background. And, of course, a strategic point from which to watch the cruise ships glide by.

My tip: Stay a few minutes on the quay to observe the mechanism of the swing bridge. It’s fascinating, even more so for children!

Observing the operation of locks

Strasbourg is home to several locks that are still in operation, where you can watch the water bubble up and the boats go up and down. Watching the precise ballet of boat captains rushing through the narrow locks is always a sight enjoyed by adults and children alike!

Two ways to experience how they work:

• a front-row seat aboard a Batorama cruise ship, or
• on land during the lifting of the Faisan bridge.

The best-known lock is the “Anciennes Glacières” lock (Lock A), located on Quai des Moulins just after the “Anciennes Glacières” footbridge. A second observation point is located at Lock B, Quai Turckheim.

Les anciennes Glacières: a hidden industrial vestige

Petite France hides a secret from its industrial past. Right next to the canals, this former factory, founded in 1897, used the hydraulic power of the Ill to produce ice loaves. At the time, they were indispensable to brewers, butchers and other shopkeepers and individuals in Strasbourg.

• Unusual detail: although the factory has closed, its turbines are listed as Historic Monuments. Today, they are magnificently integrated into the luxurious décor of the 5* Hôtel Régent Petite France.
• How to see them? The mechanism can be seen through a large glass roof from the footbridge over the former iceworks. For a more complete visit, you’ll have to wait for the Heritage Days, or join a group on request.

The Covered Bridges and the Vauban Dam: the most beautiful view

Don’t let their name fool you: the Ponts Couverts haven’t had a roof since the 18th century! But they’re no less impressive for their four fortified towers. In spring, don’t miss the spectacular giant wisteria at the Maison des Ponts Couverts… And very popular with visitors, who all come to take a photo.

The Barrage Vauban, just opposite, was designed by Vauban, Louis XIV’s architect. Together with the Ponts Couverts, this eponymous structure spans the Ill River, forming the city’s ancient defense system. I recommend a visit to the Barrage Vauban, which is free of charge, for two reasons:

• Climb up to the panoramic terrace of the Barrage Vauban. It’s from here that you’ll take one of Strasbourg’s iconic photos, with the Ponts Couverts towers, Petite France and the Cathedral spire in the background. One of the prettiest views in town!
• Discover the covered gallery housing casts of Cathedral statues.

La Petite France along the river on board a boat

To discover the district from a different angle, a boat trip is a must. You have two options:

• Batorama: the classic tourist option for discovering the city, its history, its districts and its emblematic monuments is to board a bateau mouche. Grande île, Petite France, Neustadt, Quartier Européen and institutions, Batorama offers several themed tours – lasting from 45 min to 1h15 (landing at Place de la Grande Boucherie).
• Marin d’Eau Douce: discover Strasbourg on the water in complete autonomy aboard a small electric boat without a license. Departing from the Marin d’Eau Douce nautical base (Quai du Woerthel), several itineraries ranging from 1 hour to a full day (6 hours) are available to discover the must-sees, while enjoying a bite to eat on board. You can also set sail to the south of the city, where the stroll is more rural and relaxing. Please note that you can’t pass through Petite France itself: the locks are closed to navigation except for Batorama boats (it would be too dangerous!).

A green break between two channels

If you’re visiting Strasbourg with the family, stop off at the Squares Louis Weiss or des Moulins, wedged between the canals. Well-landscaped with play areas, they’re the perfect place to take a break in the shade while the kids let off steam, with a breathtaking view over the Ill. Thanks to wooden tables and benches, you can also enjoy breakfast in the sun, picnics and even improvised pétanque and barbecues in the early evening.

An aperitif on the banks of the Ill to end the day

To round off an afternoon full of discoveries, there’s nothing like relaxing by the water. The atmosphere of the district changes at the end of the day and becomes even more magical. Three options to suit your mood:

• Rendezvous at the Quai de la Bruche for a glass of wine and a Flammkuech under the plane tree of the Petit Bois Vert. The place is even more pleasant with the evening breeze and its pretty loupiotes, for a guinguette atmosphere.
• If you prefer to be in the center of the action, return to Place Benjamin Zix. The terrace of La Corde à Linge, in the shade of its large chestnut tree, is an institution. It’s the ideal place to watch the strollers go by while enjoying a plate of spaetzle at La Corde à Linge or a good Bibeleskäs.
• Finally, picnicking on the quayside is also a popular option with locals.

The Magic of Christmas at Petite France

In December, the neighborhood changes its face. Terraces give way to wooden chalets and the smell of cinnamon. In my opinion, this is one of the most authentic places in the Strasbourg Christmas Market.

• Place Benjamin Zix: This is where the heart of Christmas beats in the neighborhood. It’s the place to come for the sublime Christmas baubles from Verrerie de Meisenthal. Here’s a tip from the locals: be prepared to come early and stand in line if you hope to leave with yours, as they’re very much in demand!
• Square Louise Weiss: home to the “Irréductibles Petits Producteurs Alsaciens” market. It’s the ideal place to find genuine local produce and gourmet foods, far from the industrial trinkets.
• Le Marché OFF (Place Grimmeissen): Right next door, this is the market we Strasbourgeois prefer. Alternative, responsible and committed, and far less touristy, it’s the market for local designers. Illustrations, decorative objects, organic and local food products, this is the place to find ethical and original gifts.

Where to eat and sleep in Petite France

Where to stay in the heart of the district?

Here are our recommended hotels in the heart of the Petite France district:

• Hôtel ClapClap Strasbourg – Trendy and dynamic, this is a great address full of life.
• Hôtel & Spa le Bouclier d’Or – A superb historic hotel in the heart of Petite France.
• Hôtel & Spa Régent Petite France – Unquestionably one of Strasbourg’s finest hotels!
• Hotel restaurant Chut – An intimate, quiet address in a prime location in the…

My favorite gourmet breaks

It’s an ambitious program for discovering Little France, so don’t forget to take a few hydration and food breaks to recharge your batteries:

• Café Bretelles: for a quality coffee break! This cute little coffee-shop is famous for its homemade Twix and cheesecake (tried and tested).
• Corde à linge: enjoy a generous plate of spaetzle, the emblematic Alsatian pasta, on one of the city’s prettiest terraces.
• Art Café: after your visit, take a lie-down on the panoramic terrace of the Musée d’Art Moderne et Contemporain and enjoy the view!
• Abattoir Café: right next to Lock B, the atmosphere is young and relaxed, and the tarts flambées are very good and can be enjoyed on the terrace at the back.
• For traditional Alsatian cuisine, grab a table at Maison des Tanneurs or Petit Bois Vert for a tarte flambée on the terrace, or La Fignette. A little further on, the Fink Stuebel is a great address.
• For mouth-watering souvenirs, a visit to the Mireille Oster gingerbread boutique is a must. Bites, cobblestones, shareable bars, she’s bursting with gourmet goodies.

Last but not least, you’ll find not only kouglof molds and Baeckeoffe terrines at La Petite France ( Plaisirs d’Alsace), but also a number of shops that distill the magic of Christmas throughout the year, such as Un Noël en Alsace.

Map of Petite France: points of interest and useful addresses

To make your exploration easier, I’ve put together this interactive map of all the must-sees in the area, as well as my favorite addresses for a gourmet break or a magical night by the water. Feel free to open it on your phone during your visit!

FAQ : Your questions about Strasbourg’s Petite France

My guide to Strasbourg

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