Alsace by bike – 3 days on a beer theme

My summary

Why this brewery tour?

Although the main theme of this tour is beer, it is above all an excellent excuse to discover another facet of Alsace. We’re moving away from the touristy villages of the Route des Vins and crossing lesser-known but equally interesting corners: vast forests, pretty countryside, quiet villages with half-timbered houses and a sublime built heritage, and peaceful canals.

It’s a great alternative for those looking for a quieter itinerary away from the crowds, or a new idea for a cycling holiday in Alsace if you’ve already explored the vineyards. It’s a different (and quieter) way to explore the region, while enjoying a host of cultural, natural and culinary discoveries.

I really recommend this tour, as I’ ve made some wonderful discoveries myself , even though I know Alsace and its bike paths really well! Of course, before or after the loop, I’d also recommend a visit to Strasbourg– it’s a must!

Day 1 – Strasbourg to Haguenau (approx. 55km)

Leaving Strasbourg via the Forêt de la Roberstau

The first day of Espace Randonnée’s brewery tour begins at Strasbourg railway station. It’s an easy start: after walking along the banks of the Ill River, you first cross the UNESCO-listed Neustadt district, with its wide avenues and majestic buildings, before reaching the banks of the river and then the European Quarter.

We then quickly leave the city and head for the Robertsau Forest. A change of atmosphere, as the city seems far behind us: we pedal in the quiet, in the shade of the trees, on beautiful forest paths. It’s a particularly pleasant stretch, punctuated by the elegant Château de Pourtalès (now a hotel).

Rhine atmosphere

The road continues through the forest towards La Wantzenau, then becomes less pleasant for a while: a long straight stretch, busy, but fortunately made safe by a cycle track. Nothing dangerous, but not the most charming part of the circuit!

Fortunately, we soon get off this road and reach Gambsheim, a particularly pretty town with beautiful half-timbered houses. Here we are very close to the Rhine , and in Gambsheim you can visit a fish pass. It’s really interesting!

We then reach Offendorf, a village marked by its links with the inland waterways. You can visit the Musée de la Batellerie, which is dedicated to this river heritage (again, I recommend it), as well as the marina on the route. I love this place, and find it a real change of scenery! For a lunch break by the water, the restaurant Le Nautic is a good option.

Then it’s back along a long straight stretch, below a dike. At times, we glimpse wild, unchannelled arms of the river, offering a glimpse of what the Rhine was like before it was developed.

Along the Moder to Haguenau

In Drusenheim, I still have a few good addresses, as I’ve already been here several times. Just opposite the ferry that allows you to cross the Rhine into Germany (including by bike!) is L’Intemporel, a great place for lunch. And for a little shopping, head for Galerie des Papilles, an organic grocery store in the village.

The last stretch of today’s route is a very pleasant one: a small road leads through fields and villages before joining a cycle path along the Moder river. This quiet greenway then leads to Haguenau.

Stopover in Haguenau

Haguenau may be less well known than other towns in Alsace, but it’s well worth a visit – and just as well, it’s our stopover for the day. It’s a lively center, with beautiful buildings, cafés, restaurants and a few interesting museums. I always enjoy going there.

Interestingly for this brewing circuit, Haguenau has long been a major hop-growing center:it all began in 1805, when a local brewer brought back hop plants from Bohemia. Cultivation soon expanded, and in the 19th century Haguenau became one of Alsace’s leading hop-growing centers. The town even built a dedicated hall, still visible today, where harvests were stored and sold. This heritage is still celebrated every year through the Festival du Houblon, the town’s flagship cultural event.

And to keep with the theme, don’t miss the beers from Le Refuge microbrewery if you’re lucky enough to drop in during opening hours.

Day 2 – Haguenau to Saverne (approx. 45km)

Starting the day in an exceptional forest

Day 2 underway! Leaving Haguenau, we follow the Moder to Schweighouse-sur-Moder, then enter the immense Haguenau forest. Classified as an “exceptional forest“, it is one of the largest lowland forest massifs in France, and the only mixed forest of the medio-European type in France, characterized by a mixture of native oaks and pines. It’s a great place to cycle!

Visit to the Uberach Brewery

We leave the forest at Uberach, home of the craft brewery of the same name. It’s well worth making a reservation if you’d like to see the brewery’s opening hours (which depend on the season). During the visit, you’ll learn about the beer-making process with a brewer, then taste the brewery’s own beers (and why not buy a few bottles to slip into your panniers…).

Moder Valley

We then return to the Moder river to cross Val de Moder, which boasts some beautiful painted facades (leave the route for a while to admire them in the village center) and a museum of popular imagery, which I visited a few years ago and really enjoyed.

Break in Bouxwiller

We then continue on before tackling a small climb to reach a pretty cycle path that takes us to Bouxwiller.

Bouxwiller is a real favorite for me: every time I come, I’m amazed by its beauty… And amazed that it isn’t visited more by tourists! It’s clearly one of the most beautiful villages in northern Alsace, and is classified as a “Petite Cité de caractère”.

In my opinion, it’s a must to take a break and stroll through the narrow streets of its particularly well-preserved historic center. You’ll find magnificent half-timbered houses and buildings, a tranquil atmosphere… and a good address for a gourmet break: Romy’s Café, charming and ideal for tasting a good home-made pastry (if you like lemon meringue pie, you’ll love it!).

Through the countryside to Saverne

We continue on a magnificent greenway towards Neuwiller-lès-Saverne, with a recommended stop at the impressive Saints-Pierre-et-Paul abbey church, which was a great discovery for me. It’s superb, and there’s a little refreshment bar under the trees that makes you want to settle in.

The route then passes through pleasantly rolling countryside, with lovely panoramic views, through Dossenheim-sur-Zinsel, Saint-Jean-Saverne and Eckartswiller, before reaching Saverne. All beautiful villages, and the only difficulties of the route: there are a few short, steep climbs, but they’re short!

Stopover in Saverne

When you arrive in Saverne, you can not only discover its rose garden, but also stroll around its marina. With its river atmosphere and view of the Château des Rohan, it’s a place I really like, and one I regularly include in my cycling itineraries so I can stop for an ice cream along the way! I always feel like I’m on vacation there.

Take the time to explore the town center, which is also very pretty. Don’t miss the Maison Katz, one of the town’s oldest. Finally, for your brewing culture, Saverne is also home to the Licorne brewery. It’s not possible to visit the brewery, but you can taste its beers all over Alsace.

Day 3 – Saverne to Strasbourg by canal (approx. 60km)

A quiet day on the river

From Saverne, a gentle start is made along the Marne-Rhine canal, which is followed for most of the day. A cycle path all along, sometimes alternating banks, the route is easy, flat and pleasant. It could be a little monotonous, but there are a few nice stops along the way that make for a very pleasant day.

Hochfelden and the Meteor brewery

In Hochfelden, we leave the canal to take a short detour into the town center and discover an Alsatian institution: the Meteor brewery. This is the oldest brewery still in operation in France, and has been in the family for eight generations. You can visit the Villa Meteor, a well-designed museum adjoining the production site. It traces both the history of the brewery and the stages in beer production.

The tour ends with a generous tasting, with several beers on offer. Be careful not to get too tempted, there are still many miles to go 😛

Heading for the hop capital

We then pick up a stretch of the canal before branching off towards Wingersheim-les-Quatre-Bans, which is none other than the hop capital of Alsace. The landscape changes: here, hop fields dot the fields. You’ll easily recognize them even if you’ve never seen them before: they’re large metal structures where hop vines climb, clearly recognizable by their vertical shape.

Along the way, don’t miss Hohatzenheim’s church, perched high up and visible from afar, and the beautiful traditional houses in the villages you pass through. And if your stomach is hungry, the Lutz bakery in Wingersheim offers a pleasant terrace for lunch or a snack. Finally, take a look at the opening hours of Brasserie La Houblonnière to see if you can stop by.

Back to Strasbourg by canal

Then it’s back across the fields to the Marne-Rhine canal, which takes us gently back to Strasbourg. Here, we pass pleasure boats, watch the locks in operation, and enjoy the calm of the banks. The route is popular with cyclists and river tourists alike, but never crowded.

The return to the city was the same as on the outward journey: the European Quarter, the Imperial Quarter, then the quays to the station. I added a little detour to Petite France, because it’s as beautiful as ever! It’s a nice loop, a gentle end to a busy three days discovering Alsace brewing.